Reviewed & updated: October 19, 2022 by Jamie Wilson BA
A barber shop is a very special place for men, especially for guys who like short fade haircuts and can’t cut their hair on their own. Over the years we slowly sculpt and fix our haircut till we find the perfect look. Some people take a lot less time to find their perfect trim. However, the thing that will stand in the way of you and your perfect hairstyle is communication with your barber. You have to be open and communicate, try to find the cut that suits you. Here is how to tell apart your options.
Clipper guards control the amount of hair that will be cut by the clipper. Without a good clipper guard or the right hair clipper sizes you will get nowhere. So it is essential to have a grasp of this especially if you cut your hair at home. So in this article, we will help you grasp the lingo and ways of clipper guards so the process of a wonderful haircut is that much easier. Also, we will show you what clipper guards to use on various buzzcut lengths and hairstyles.
Clipper Guards: What Length Are Clipper Guards?
There isn’t a universal solution, and getting just one guard size won’t ”cut it”. Haircut lengths vary, which is why you will have to take a close look at your clipper guard sizes and the look that you wish to achieve. Some longer guard lengths can be used for thick and messy hair or you can opt for shorter kinds that can deep into the root. And in terms of measurement, hair clipper guard sizes are determined in millimeters (mm) or inches (“), depending on the place you shop from. Here is what your hair clipper number means:
- Number 0 is used for short buzzcuts, and it is only 1.5 mm or 1/16 inches long.
- Number 1 guard number is 3mm long and 1/8 inches.
- Number 2 is 6mm long and 1/4 inches, and so on.
The last clipper to go for is a number 12, used for hair that is 37.5mm long, or 1.5 inches.
When cutting hair on your own or at a barber shop you need to purchase the right type of clippers’ kit and different attachment combs in order to achieve different looks.
What Clipper Length Should I Use?
This all comes down to you and your personal preference. Do you like buzzcut looks or do you prefer taper lever hairdos? Go for something that suits your head shape, but make sure that you use the best hair clippers you can find on Amazon or at your favorite store since this way you will enjoy the best results.
Top 8 Short Buzz Cuts To Go For
1. Zero “0”
“Grade 0 haircut” is the closest to skin, while still having a little hair. A zero a grade would typically be a cut from the clippers without a clippers guard attached merely the permanent guard on the clippers. A “zero all over” will give you a classic buzz cut, but to go completely bald (otherwise known as a “baldy”) it would be better for your barber to go for a razor or a trimmer which will take it to skin which is no hair whatsoever. Using this level on your side is ideal when trying to achieve a skin fade. Finish off with a blade for crispy clean edges.
2. Grade 1
A “Grade 1 Haircut” is about 1/8 of an inch, which is a little longer than a number zero. The #1 guard is still ideal for buzz cuts, or you can use it to taper or fade from different numbers. However, we do not recommend a number 1 cut if you don’t want your scalp to show. In the end this look is super simple and low-maintenance to go for.
3. Grade 2 Skin Fade
The “Grade 2 Haircut” is one of the most popular clipper sizes especially when fading. Not too short or long, the #2 gives you 1/4 of an inch in length, allowing for a fuller hairstyle that doesn’t expose the scalp and makes hair appear thick. A number 2 is a safe bet for guy’s with thinning hair and is likely perfect for thick hair. A low or high skin fade is ideal with a 2 on the top.
4. Grade 3 Buzzcut
The “Grade 3 Haircut” cuts your hair down to 3/8 of an inch, and is generally the longest clipper size most barbers will use to maintain short faded sides. On the other hand, a #3 can also be used on the top for a longer buzz cut style (e.g. burr cut). Aim for three-quarters of an inch to upkeep this hairdo.
5. Grade 4 Haircut
A “Number 4 Haircut” leaves hair 1/2 inch long, making it the medium length of the clipper guards. With the #4 size, you can start to get a brush or crew cut. Similar to a buzz cut but include a skin fade on the sides and longer hair on top. The grade 4 haircut works well for both thick and thin hair but will have you needing to cut your hair quite regularly. Switch to a different clipper guard if you want a subtle change.
6. Taper
The other levels like a grade 5, grade 6, grade 7 and a grade 8 haircut are mostly reserved for a taper. A taper is a classic hairstyle for men. A lot like a fade a taper takes the hair from a long length to a gradual reducing length up from the neckline. Unlike a fade which goes from short to shorter usually to skin. A taper is for people that want to keep a length to the sides of their hair. A taper follows the shape of the head for short to medium length hair. Some taper haircuts are taper fades, combining the profile of a taper with a fade at the neckline.
7. The French Crop
Similar to a Caesar cut, the French crop consists of hair that is cut short on the back and sides, and kept slightly longer through the top, either combed forward over the forehead or pushed to the side depending on length. Usually, you’re looking at one-quarter of an inch left around at its shortest. It’s an easy to maintain, versatile haircut that works for men of all ages and style persuasions.
8. Short Back And Sides
A short back and side haircut takes advantage of grade 1, grade 2 or skin on the back and sides. Barbers would use the lowest clipper guards to cut back the sides. Length on top allows for a variety of styles to be achieved, but the sides are kept short, and tapered down towards the ears. Not for everyone, if you can pull it off, it’s perhaps the most versatile haircut there is when it comes to styling.
Summary
If you are someone looking to cut their own hair and interested in how guards work, now you know it all and we recommend you start your journey on Wahl clippers and Wahl clipper guards. The brand is leading in male hair grooming and their guards standard is great. Start looking and feeling your best, no better feeling than DIY’ing your own hairdo.
